Isaac Fain
 Veteran Member Posts:1013
 | | 29 Sep 2007 12:36 PM |
| Looking to buy an ice axe for this winter and possibly some cramp-ons. any tips for either? Also, I was looking for some traction-aides that slip over your boot / shoes like a cramp-on but are basically just steel cables that give your shoes extra bite on ice or compact snow. for the life of me I can't find any of these online - what are they called? last but not least, what to look for in an avalanche transponder? discuss! cheers -ike |
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Isaac Fain
 Veteran Member Posts:1013
 | | 29 Sep 2007 12:42 PM |
| 2nd question answered - Yaktrax: |
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John Rohrbaugh
 New Member Posts:93
 | | 29 Sep 2007 01:42 PM |
| the yak trax are useful. I have a pair and have used them even in town. As for the axe, Isaac, have you ever used one? Do you know how to properly fit one to yourself? If not, I'd be happy to throw in a pointer or three. there aren't really any preferred brands. I have an REI brand and leash and it works just fine...although I prefer to never HAVE to use it!! |
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Isaac Fain
 Veteran Member Posts:1013
 | | 29 Sep 2007 01:50 PM |
| thanks, John - the more I look at the yaktrax, the more I think they might be permanent fixture in my jeep bags There've been so many times I've slipped and slided my around the jeep while trying to get unstuck, or just wanting to take a quick walk out to a point. re: ice axe - never used one. bring on the pointers! |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 29 Sep 2007 01:58 PM |
| REI should rent avalanche transponders. if you're going to the trouble of carrying one, you ought to have the skillz to use it, a detector, a probe, and a shovel. not saying you shouldn't but things to consider. i don't know jack about the ice axes but i've seen a carbon fiber one. that's the one to get.
a |
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John Rohrbaugh
 New Member Posts:93
 | | 29 Sep 2007 02:23 PM |
| hmmm...thinking about this for the last few minutes...trying to figure out how to describe this process. LONG rambling post warning! fitment: (assuming right hander) there are three bits, the head (a 'spade end' and a pointy bit), the body, and the tip end...you know if it 'fits' you if you wrap your left hand around the body (god help me I almost typed 'shaft') just above the tip on the end (I'm losing ground fast here) and wrap your right hand over the top of the head with your thumb wrapped under the 'spade' and the pointy end sticking outward. If it is the right length for you, you SHOULD be able to pull your right hand up to your shoulder and tuck your right elbow in and jam your left hand to your hip on your left side. This allows you to lean forward with your weight over the pointy bit as you slide crazily down the face of some distant peak wondering why you ever took up mountaineering in the first place. (see attached pic of good fitment) it just occurred to me that this could be easily described as crossing diagonally over your torso. doh. I don't quite have this pose in the pic because I was to busy instructing the 9 year old on how to take the picture!! don't forget your leash. I think the jury is sill out but as for me, if I'm sliding down the hill, the last thing I want to do is lose my axe. The leash attaches to the head and wraps around your wrist. Final note: using an axe is an insanely complicated process when you are trying not to lose your mind sliding down a hill. The best recommendation is to take a mountaineers class on proper technique, and the backup technique (the cat crawl), for when you lose your axe or leave it in the truck. Then find a steep sledding hill and practice, practice practice. it's a great safety tool, if you know how to use it. have fun! jrr |
Attachment: axe.JPG
Attachment: axe_poser.JPG
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Nevak Risew
 Veteran Member Posts:1200
 | | 29 Sep 2007 04:12 PM |
| " it's a great safety tool, if you know how to use it."
Yep. And a deadly impaler if you don't Run by a used book store and see if you can get a copy of "Freedom of the Hills." In the 7th edition now? It has some good info on use and techniques. Ice axes aren't walking sticks. A class is a good idea, or at least a weekend spent throwing yourself off a steep slope under the watchful eye of someone who knows how to use one. I have one I can part with. It's the red one in the pic here. I hope I made it big enough to see the difference between the standard Mountain Axe (red) and the carbon fiber Sumner. Not sure they still make those. Mine is almost 20 years old....bullet proof! NFS. Anyway, note the plastic vs. steel on both ends. the rivets vs. solid steel pins. different spike shapes. different shaft materials. The red one is slightly lighter, but not as strong. Not that it should come into play. I may have a pair of old crampons I could part with too. I'll check when I get time. With a pair of these you can gash your calf and fall on your ice axe all at the same time! heehee I'm not up to date on the best of the avi beacons.... check out a backcountry skiiers website or climbers site maybe to see what current thinking is? Peeps was it when I was doing it. |
Attachment: Axes.jpg
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Nevak Risew
 Veteran Member Posts:1200
 | | 29 Sep 2007 04:19 PM |
| I like those YakTrax! Wish I had invented those. |
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Todd Eliason
 Veteran Member Posts:3524
 | | 29 Sep 2007 07:58 PM |
| the Yaktrax are not a climbing or outback worthy tool, but handy around town in snow or ice... I have a pair and they broke after a few days of solid use. Still usable and I keep them in my search bag, but the rubber used is not something you would want to depend on for getting out of trouble.
for $20, worth it for extra traction when icy around town.
My next pair will be the ones with the rivets rather than the coils. edit: fwiw, I have had them for 5 years now, used about 5 times... They may be more durable now. For the relatively low cost, you could get 2 pair for those emergencies... nowhere near a crampon though... |
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Peter Carey
 Veteran Member Posts:2829
 | | 29 Sep 2007 10:25 PM |
| I gotta ask, what do you plan to use the ice axe for? |
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Davis M
 Basic Member Posts:238
 | | 30 Sep 2007 12:31 AM |
| an ice ax is sized to the task and personal preference. i'm not aware of a "rule of thumb" that will give you the best size. too long can be difficult to use on a steep pitch and too short forces you to hunch over on moderate slopes. i would recommend renting or borowwing until you find a size that does what you need for the climbs you are making. if you are unfamiliar with their use, take a class. |
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Nevak Risew
 Veteran Member Posts:1200
 | | 30 Sep 2007 01:04 AM |
| Ike, have you thought about a Babooshka?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=xz07Hf5htfY |
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Isaac Fain
 Veteran Member Posts:1013
 | | 30 Sep 2007 08:58 AM |
| Posted By Peter Carey on 09/29/2007 10:25 PM
I gotta ask, what do you plan to use the ice axe for? to have something besides my elbow to stop me whilst freefalling on the side of icy / snowy mountains like last year thanks for the info guys - i think a couple mountaineering courses are in order. i'd like to try some mild ice climbing this winter. |
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John Rohrbaugh
 New Member Posts:93
 | | 30 Sep 2007 11:47 AM |
| true story on the the fact that it could become an impaler. I think that's why there's arguments against leashes...because unless you have your hand on the thing it can tend to flail around in a bad fall. I have not so fond memories of training with it...sliding headfirst backwards down avalanche chutes with a person acting as "catcher" down at the bottom!! GACK! Have fun Isaac...and be safe! |
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Nevak Risew
 Veteran Member Posts:1200
 | | 30 Sep 2007 12:13 PM |
| Well, if you decide you need one, the red one is yours for a foot rub. Ok, maybe a bottle vino would be less awkward. REI used to have mountaineering classes. I took a 3 day snow and glacier travel course through them back in the 80s. It was on Mt. Baker and covered lots of good stuff. As a starting point I'd pick up Freedom of the Hills and start reading. A little armchair climbing  |
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Andy Berglund Tacoma, WA
 Veteran Member Posts:3453
 | | 30 Sep 2007 02:45 PM |
| john- at least you were the pitcher.  |
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Isaac Fain
 Veteran Member Posts:1013
 | | 30 Sep 2007 07:01 PM |
| Posted By Nevak Risew on 09/30/2007 1:04 AM
Ike, have you thought about a Babooshka?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=xz07Hf5htfY Dear Kate: Drugs are bad, mmmmK? love, -ike |
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Isaac Fain
 Veteran Member Posts:1013
 | | 30 Sep 2007 07:03 PM |
| Posted By Nevak Risew on 09/30/2007 12:13 PM
Well, if you decide you need one, the red one is yours for a foot rub. Ok, maybe a bottle vino would be less awkward. REI used to have mountaineering classes. I took a 3 day snow and glacier travel course through them back in the 80s. It was on Mt. Baker and covered lots of good stuff. As a starting point I'd pick up Freedom of the Hills and start reading. A little armchair climbing 
no prob on the foot rub. i just need to pick up a foot rub assistant on Aurora first, and we'll be right over I'll check out the book!!
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Isaac Fain
 Veteran Member Posts:1013
 | | 30 Sep 2007 07:08 PM |
| Posted By John Rohrbaugh on 09/30/2007 11:47 AM
true story on the the fact that it could become an impaler. I think that's why there's arguments against leashes...because unless you have your hand on the thing it can tend to flail around in a bad fall. I have not so fond memories of training with it...sliding headfirst backwards down avalanche chutes with a person acting as "catcher" down at the bottom!! GACK! Have fun Isaac...and be safe! "catcher" - LMAO! no rope? :-o as usual my ignorance has me off on more wild goosechases. besides an ice axe, is there some other tool that's commonly used with the arms as a climbing assistant? something that'll dig in to a slope and let you pull yourself up, or is the axe the tool of choice in this regard, too? i probably came close to making the news in a bad way on at least 2 or 3 occasions last year x-) |
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Nevak Risew
 Veteran Member Posts:1200
 | | 30 Sep 2007 08:20 PM |
| Ike, I think I'll stick with the wine if that's okay  You asked: "besides an ice axe, is there some other tool that's commonly used with the arms as a climbing assistant?" I googled Freddie Claws, thinking they would be just the ticket. The Google can be really interesting. Either of these would catch ya.
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Attachment: freddie_mercury_67.jpg
Attachment: more_showing_claws.jpg
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