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Finally rained on my parade
Last Post 09 Mar 2010 08:07 PM bydubl_t. 10 Replies.
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Tom ThomasUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2010 03:12 PM  

Not a cloud in the sky and the birds are singing.  Finally got the lift on, then had the tires mounted; and cruised over to a buddy's house to 'show off' (he's got a Jeep).  Anyways, cruising home and it just dies.  Starting to drizzle.  No noises, no warning, chugging or anything.  Got pulled over and first checked for spark, which was surprisingly strong.  Drizzle turns to rain.

Got towed home, checked for fuel pressure. Nothing, "0" pressure.  First thought's a fuel pump, but PO just changed it.  I just changed the filter.  Decided to sleep on it.

Got up, installed RAVE, and began searching for "something".  Tracing the schematic, looks like bat--fuses--relay--inertia switch--pump.  So checked power to fuses, good; then power to inertia switch since it's easy access, nothing.  Pull off R. lower kick panel and pull relay.  Power to relay through both 30 (WP wire) and 86 (WG wire), so I'm thinking relay, but they're usually pretty robust.  Anyways, jumper from 30 to 87a (2WP wires) gives me power to inertia switch and I assume pump, but still no fuel pressure.  Jumper from 30 to 87a AND 87b (2WO wires, going to O2 sensors) produces nothing.

Well, now I'm scratching my head and can't really find in RAVE how to properly diagnos the fuel system.  Any advise you can give me would be GREATLY appreciated.  I hesitate to take it to a shop as I "need" to know how to fix my junk, especially on the trail.  Besides, there's not many Rover repair facilities in WY .

 

Couple other things worth mentioning,

-2wks ago it just died at a stoplight, but started right up.

-last week it died but re-surfaced by fluttering the go peddle.

-related issues? I hope so. I hate having ghosts.

Also, kinda low on cash, but I'd GLADLY trade diagnostic help for custom welding and fab or concrete work.

Isaac FainUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2010 03:22 PM  
what year truck is this (fingers crossed that it's post '90). I think you need to get to the fuel pump harness and test voltage there first, to verify that the pump isn't toast. If there's no voltage, then work back towards the front of the truck with your tests. more in a bit ...
Ben BaileyUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2010 07:11 PM  
Year and type?
Tom ThomasUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2010 08:46 PM  

haha, don't know how I could forget the 'important' details (A.D.D.), It's a '95 D1, auto, no sunroofs. I think it was something of a 'sport' package, has rock guards over the taillights.

Tomorrow I'll check for power at the fuel pump connector by the rear left tire.

Thanks.

Isaac FainUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2010 08:55 PM  
D1 - cool. lift the rear cargo mat, you'll find a circular access panel to the pump. there's a pigtail under the cover. start there and work forward!

cheers
-ike
Tom ThomasUser is Offline
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22 Feb 2010 06:09 PM  
well...pulled the rear pump cover, couldn't get a "light"; which lit up when tested on the rear courtesy lamp.
found lot's of rust though(damb safari windows), and top of pump was dirty, so sprayed the connector and re-attached. Just for kicks, thought I'd try to start. Damb thing started.

This is gonna bug me till I have enough beers to forget about it, which should be in 5...4...3...2...

Here's something a little different though, I assume the ECM controls the relay. Now, trucks running and I pull the connector at the Inertia switch, and while the engine is dying a slow death due to no fuel, I've got power. But when the engines dead, no power. You think this could've been caused by ghosts in the ECM, and not something as simple as a bad connection at the pump?

These things are really cool to work on though, reminds me of old CJ's, but more "refined" ;)
Isaac FainUser is Offline
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22 Feb 2010 06:25 PM  
My money is on the pigtail at the pump - it's pretty common for them to become corroded and be unhappy. Just clean it up, and get some good dabs of dialectric grease and you should be good to go. As for the inertia switch / power pull - you got me there. those things are like voodoo to me. spooky The thing that mystifies me about rovers is how deceptively simple they appear on the surface. don't let it fool you. there is real evil lurking there in the beast which, when spoken nicely to and with the proper regiment of ritualistic sacrifices, will be coerced to work in your favor. hehe

cheers
-ike
Tom ThomasUser is Offline
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22 Feb 2010 06:31 PM  
Haha Ike, you're like a little dab of sunshine on a rainy day!
Tom ThomasUser is Offline
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08 Mar 2010 11:27 AM  
OK, fought this problem for a couple weeks now. It would run, then die, or run then not start...you get the idea. Went to Pick'n'Pull in Sherwood yesterday to go 'shopping' and the damb thing wouldn't start. Had my tools but no fuel pressure tester, so I confirmed that juice was getting to the FP, then pressed the test port on the fuel rail and fuel squirted out. The Rover would start then cough'n'die just like running out of fuel. Finally had the FP tester deliverd and in the end, no fuel pressure. Pulled the pump, re-plugged to confirm one last time that it was dead. Got to the house to remove the pump from the housing, and just for giggles decided to jump it across a battery, when the damb pump came to life!
Well, I decided to write this one off as an irregular pump failure. One time I had a blower motor that would 'come and go' due to a short in the windings.
Long story short, I installed a Master/Airtex E3270 as I couldn't get a factory pump at 7pm on Sunday. So far, so good; and it seems to start quicker also.
Scott WilliamsUser is Online
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08 Mar 2010 05:29 PM  
Tom,

it's not unusual at all to have a pump come to life with a battery jump. Remember the pump is unloaded so there is no resistance to the motor just sitting out of the tank. I would strongly recommend changing the fuel filter as well if you have bot already done so.
Tom ThomasUser is Offline
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09 Mar 2010 08:07 PM  
Yea a new filter would be a good safety measure. Thanks Scott.
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